2003 Journal of investigative dermatology 2003 ;25 (1-2):55-62
Coletica, Lyon, France; YSL Beaute, Neuilly sur Seine, France

In vitro stimulation of synthesis of key DEJ constituents in a reconstructed skin model: a quantitative study

Fighting skin ageing is one of the major targets of cosmetology research. However, traditional approaches to skin ageing using stimulation of basal keratinocyte proliferation and fibroblastic neosynthesis appear today to be incomplete, particularly considering changes occurring at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) during the course of ageing. Unfortunately the lack of in vitro model limits the exploration process of the phenomena of DEJ ageing, and particularly they evaluation of the changes of key components, that are laminin-5, types IVand VII collagens. The aim of this work was to provide an in vitro model of reconstructed skin, base for new dosage and identification methods for qualitative and quantitative analysis of the key components of DEJ. Reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) and quantitative RT-PCR were successfully applied to this model to analyse mRNA of laminin-5, types IV and VII collagens and their variation in 'young' and 'mature' reconstructed skin model. Finally, this model was used to test the activity of ingredients for cosmetic application, in order to modulate the expression of the major components of DEJ. To conclude. we demonstrated that this in vitro model of reconstructed young and mature skin provides a useful tool to get into the biology of the DEJ, key structure of the skin, and specifically into its dynamic changes during the ageing process.